Crocheted top and skirt with crinoline, 2018.
Apparel & Creative Direction: Gloria Sophie Wille
Model: Julia Fritsch
Make Up & Hair: Anke Leuwer
Photography: Detlef Nehls
This crocheted dress has been inspired by the song "Grew Up at Midnight" by The Maccabees, my time in France and my obsession with the French revolution and Marie-Antoinette.
This dress has been my crux. Ever since the song came out, I wanted to crochet a dress about it. It had to be elegant, playful and noble. At first I couldn't seem to find the right colour for it, restart, then the shape was off, restart, then I didn't like the pattern, restart. It was a constant struggle in my mind how to, well, crochet what I had in mind about this song. It had to be perfect - much like the song was to me. It had to be a dress that could live up to this song. Eventually when I moved to France I got inspired by the French revolution. Perfect: the end of the song sounds like a freeing combat, a way of breaking up with your old self, I guess, turning towards something new. For a while there I was obsessed with the story of Marie Antoinette and how she had to grow up to at the age of only 14, marrying Louis XIV; both incredibly unhappy with the arrangement. Marie Antoinette eventually succumbed her fate on the scaffold, leading France into a new era.
This dress has been a group effort, really. The red skirt/train contains 96 small crocheted squares, the so-called "grannies". I got tired oh so often, crocheting the same pattern over and over again, thus prolonging the way of finishing it. So I wrote down the pattern and asked my mother help me finishing it. The next obstacle were the bulky sleeves, yet again containing only crocheted grannies. This dress was previously shown on the runway show at a wedding fair - yet without the sleeves. Much like France, the dress was yet unfinished: France wasn't built in one day, right? After the runway show, I kept it safely hidden, thinking to myself: eventually I'll finish the sleeves. In January 2017 then I had an intern and together we finished what I have started about five years earlier. What I've learnt throughout this gown's journey? Growing up is always a group effort.
Song: The Maccabees - Grew Up at Midnight